Getting Worse before it Gets Better

Hello friends and family,

I have received a few emails/ phone calls about the situation between Israel and Gaza and how I am doing and I just want to reassure all of you that I am safe in Jerusalem. I am not traveling anywhere for New Years just hanging around Jerusalem with some friends.

It is with hesitation that I write this email about the matzav (situation) because a part of me hopes that it is over in a couple of days; although the reality is it will most likely get worse before it gets better. I can go on and on about the political issues, but most of you know that Iran is funding Hamas and Hamas's sole agenda is to destroy Israel, so the big picture is the reality of fighting Iran but the immediate threat is that throughout these 6 months Hamas has rearmed with longer ranging missiles, weapons and training. Now it is finally time to deal with Hamas on the ground.

Throughout these 6 months of living in Israel I've met some great guys that are now in the army, some were called up to go into Gaza and some were trained in Gaza. It is a very unsettling feeling of actually knowing good friends here that are in Gaza compared to living in Boston knowing that "some random guys" are fighting on behalf of the Jewish State.

One of the stories I can tell you that happened a couple of days ago is this: I called my friend Dave at 10:30 Monday night and in a panicky voice he said he would call me back in 10 minutes. Ten minutes later Dave called me back and he was in shock. He was just on the phone with his mate that is a journalist who was driving near Ashquelon and all of a sudden Dave's mate heard a siren that a rocket was launched from Gaza and in position to hit Ashquelon. In Ashquelon they have 1 full minute before impact so he had 1 minute to find a shelter. Dave's mate stopped the car, put the cell phone on the seat but did not turn it off, and ran to the nearest shelter. One minute later, Dave was still on the phone listening through the phone and heard the rocket's thud. Dave then hung up the phone. Dave's mate called him back once he got back into the car and said that he was safe but could not find a shelter so he had to lie on the ground with his hands over his head until he heard the rockets impact.

My daily life is not directly affected by the situation like the people living in Beer Sheba, Sderot, Ashquelon, Ashdod and other Southern cities, but who knows? I can only hope that this mission will be swift and that the IDF learned a lot from their mistakes in the Second Lebanon War.

I am still on all these list serves from Jewish American organizations and I want to thank you for your media support, organizing rallies, and general support of Israel. I hope the next time I write it is with good news. Go to my friend Benji's blog for his comedic insight, he is brilliant. http://www.whatwarzone.com/2008/12/here-we-go-again.html

Happy New Year…all my love

Esther

Happy Hanukah, Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year!

Shalom

There is something about the holidays in Israel which reminds me how special it is to be living as a Jew in the Jewish state during this time in history. I feel very lucky to safely walk the streets of Jerusalem celebrating Hanukah with my friends, however it was not always like this and it will probably not continue forever but at this point of time in Israel I am very grateful for my freedom and lifestyle.

Some of the things I love about Hanukah in Israel are:

1. Menorah’s lit up on lamp posts and on taxi cabs (see pic)
2. Chocolate covered parve, yummy, sufganiot (aka Donuts)
3. Walking down the street and seeing Hanukah candles burning in the windows of people’s homes
4. Saying Chag Samach to everyone and not having to explain to anyone that yes, in fact, I am Jewish and do not celebrate Christmas

My favorite Hanukah story in Israel is that one of my friends, Paul, was at the gym the first night of Hanukah at 5:30ish. Over the loud speaker the receptionist announced that lighting the Menorah will be at the front desk in a couple of minutes. All of a sudden the treadmills, elliptical machines, macho men lifting weights, dance class STOPPED! Everyone came to the front desk to light the first candles and sing Hanukah songs. Only in Israel!

My next religious experience was Midnight mass church bouncing in the Old City. These were some of my observations:

1. You can tell who is Jewish at mass by who is swaying back and forth to the pretty Christmas songs
2. The Jerusalemite Syndrome Jesuses were walking around like it was their Birthday
3. The priest of the Scottish church said Christmas is all about a crack-whore, I think he was talking about Mary but he could have been talking about a ritz cracker
4. The priest also said if Jesus was an entitled middle-upper class Jew than he would not be their savior. This could be taken as anti-Semitic or maybe this priest had a bad day with Israeli customer service.

To all my Jewish friends, I hope you enjoyed the Matzo Ball dance, saw a good movie and ate yummy Chinese food. To all my non-Jewish friends, Merry Christmas and I hope you enjoyed it with your loved ones.

Today is my 6 month Aliyah-versary and I will be celebrating with friends at a few parties tonight.

All my love,

Esther

Integrating into Israeli society

Hello friends and family,

It has been about a month since I've updated you about life in Israel, which is going very well. It is getting a bit chilly here but I still go out for my morning runs which proves to be the most dangerous thing here because of the wet, slippery leaves on the limestone, hilly sidewalks.

I ended Ulpan Etzion early in November because life was getting busy and I started working a few jobs but I found a part-time intensive Ulpan which I will start in early January. In the meantime, I babysit the cutest baby, care for a very nice elderly man, am the Marketing Director for Sacred Burial Products which capitalizes on Christian ideology by selling soil from Israel to Christians for burial (everyone has their flugelbinder) so hopefully this is mine, and I am selling ads for PresenTense Magazine. I am also on the Steering Committee for PresenTense Summer Institute and will be developing a business/ leadership curriculum for the summer fellows. (my Masters is actually coming in handy!)

It is hard to express in words the transition that I am going through living in Israel but what I've realized is that this experience is a step to the process. It is not the end all be all, but something that will make me a better Jewish leader and Zionist. The World is too transient now to be in one place forever.

I've thought a lot about the transition steps for an Anglo who immigrates to Israel and these are some of my observations and insights. This past summer I was in vacation/program mode in which I made my group of friends, explored Israel, and finally enjoyed some free time in my life. Then the Chagim (holidays) month was a fun-food-filled festival in which I experienced some eye-opening events. After the Chagim reality set in and money starting running low so it was time for me to stop having so much fun and start applying for the jobs I was researching in the field of Corporate Social Responsibility, but reality hit me even harder when people told me my Hebrew was not up to par. This brings me to the real integration into Israeli society- working 4 jobs!

I love living here but there are times I feel like my world in Boston just lifted itself up and changed locations to Jerusalem. Through talking with people they say the integration into Israeli society takes a good three years, from learning Hebrew, to settling into a community, getting a "real" job and breaking away from my Anglo world. Who knows? I have friends here for all different reasons, some just to get a free Masters, or an Israeli passport which is more useful than their South African passport, and some to find a husband. I am still finding my reason but in the meantime gaining insight into the process. I also think to really understand what it means to live in Israel and be an Israeli I have to live in Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and maybe up North (working on a winery).

Sorry this is such a long email but I've been doing a lot of thinking about the integration into Israeli society and how/where I would benefit the Jewish world at large.
I am very excited to see some of you this December/January when you are leading Birthrights, which if you need to me to speak to the group about any topic, I am available. For the rest of you, I will see you when I visit Boston/Philly/NY in late February.

Chag Samach and all my love,
Esther
www.esthersaliyah.blogspot.com
Me and baby Livnat...soooooo cute!

My street!!!

Nir Barkat and the GA

Shalom from the homeland!

Sorry it has been a while since I've updated everyone about the happening with my life in Israel but life is very busy and interesting. I am still going to Ulpan (Hebrew lessons) but only about 3 days a week, I am working part-time babysitting and in elderly care, and enjoying my new friends.

The interesting part of my life is that I was campaigning for Nir Barkat, the newly elected mayor of Jerusalem and he WON!! I am sure most of you have heard about him if not you can go here: http://www.barkat.org.il/English.aspx. The day of the election I stood on the corner of a major intersection waving at people and yelling VOTE Nir Barkat (in Hebrew) - see picture! Also, the night of the American election we stayed up very very late to watch the results on tv and it was extremely exciting that Obama won.

These past few days the GA (General Assembly) of North American Federations was happening in Jerusalem so I attended most of the conference. The speakers included Prime Minister Olmert, President Shimon Peres, Foreign Minister Tzipi Livni and many other Jewish leaders. The main point of the conference for me was to network and see some friends from Boston/NY/DC which was very nice. I would fill you in on the details but my friend Benji Lovitt (who went with me) wrote such a hysterically true piece on the conference that I am going to direct you to his blog. http://www.whatwarzone.com/2008/11/its-ujcs-ga-2008no-its-matza-balloh.html

I hope all is well with everyone in the States and you are "staying above water" during this challenging economic time.

All my love,
Esther
Taryn and me volunteering on election day

Sukkot in Jerusalem

Shalom,

Sukkot in Israel and specifically in Jerusalem is an amazing experience. For 7 days there are festivals, parties and ceremonies going on in the city which gives it a spirit like no other city in the world. Before Sukkot came in I went with my friends to the shuk which was unbelievably packed with people buying lulavs, etrogs, and decorating stuff for their sukkah. Most restaurants have a sukkah attached to their outdoor section and even the falafal stands have a sukkah.

Yesterday there was the Feast of the Tabernacles which is a parade of 8000 people from all different countries showing their support for Israel. This morning I went to the Berkat Ha Kohanim at the Kotel. Thousands of people packed the foyer and praying section of the Kotel to hear hundreds Kohamin bless the people of Israel. It brought back childhood memories of my father, uncles and Zayde doing the Kohamin prayer infront of the congregation but it also felt as if I was at the Temple 2000 years ago for the journey of Sukkot.

I can not attach the video clip becasue it is too big but look at it on my blog.

Chag Samach
Esther

PS...pass this onto whomever and I will post it on my blog at www.esthersaliyah.blogspot.com


see more at http://www.jpost.com/servlet/Satellite?cid=1222017555159&pagename=JPost%2FJPArticle%2FShowFull

Yom Kippur in Jerusalem

Every Jew should experience at least one Yom Kippur at the Kotel in Jerusalem.

In Jerusalem the feeling of Yom Kippur started at 10am Wednesday morning, the grocery stores were packed and people were rushing to finish last minute details before the city shut down. At 2pm every store was closed, and hardly any cars were on the street. At 3pm there was a hurry in my apartment building; we were cooking, cleaning, showering, and feeling the need to conclude our chores in an hour.

As the air gets cooler, the sun goes down we sit and enjoy our last meal for 24 hours with friends and family. As we sip our last dribble of water, eat our last crumble of cake, the Siren calling in Yom Kippur blasts all around Jerusalem for a whole minute.

I walked to the holiest site for the Jewish people, the Kotel, with thousands of other Jews just as they did two thousand years ago and along the way hearing different congregations start their Kol Nidre service. When I walked down the stairs that overlook the Golden Dome and Kotel I heard what sounded like a tenor cantorial chant of "KOL NIDRE" but it wasn't, it was the Muslim call to prayer. At that moment I was reminded how similar my religion is to the religion of my close neighbors and cousins.

At the Kotel no matter the differences in culture, Mizrahi or Ashkanazi, conservative or orthodox we prayed together to G-d to atone our sins in harmonic melodies. I sat there hearing the songs from my childhood, seeing people cry, smile, and in awe, and smelling the crisp Jerusalem air. After having an internal conversation with G-d I left the Kotel feeling in awe and overwhelmed about how special it is to live in Jerusalem.

There are so many aspects that are not discussed about Israel that are deep routed in their traditions. One of these special traditions is "taking to the streets" after Kol Nidre service. In the middle of the street there were thousands of kids on bikes, young adults mingling, and people strolling with their dogs. Not one car came through and not one person yelled at each other to move.

As I broke the fast with friends on my porch, I am reminded how lucky I am to be living in Jerusalem at this moment in time. I am happy for everything that brought me here along my journey.

L'Shana Tova Tikatavu (May you be inscribed in the book of life)

Jackie, my neighbor, and I at our break-fast shindig

Jerusalem's First Rain

"The first rain reminds me of the rising summer dust" -Yahuda Amichai

Today was the first rain of the season in Jerusalem and it was a spectacular sight, feeling and sound. Rain is prayed for all year long so to experience it is emotional. In Boston we take for granted the amount of rain we get but when you do not see rain for months at a time, you appreciate its coming and purpose for the cycle of nature.

Shabbat shalom
Esther

שנה טובה Happy and Healthy New Year

Shalom friends and family,


I want to wish everyone a happy and healthy New Year! To be in Israel during the Chagim (holidays) is an amazing experience. It is like Christmas in Israel for Jews! The stores are packed, people are happy, and it is vacation time (again). For Rosh Hashanna I am going to my cousins in Netanya and for Yom Kippur and Sukkot I will be in Jerusalem, which I am looking forward to immensely. I have 3 weeks off of Ulpan but during this time I will be studying with friends for at least a couple of hours a day.

These past few weeks have coasted by but I have three "first" Israeli experiences that are news worthy.

1. Last Wednesday my throat hurt so went to the doctor. I stepped into 1970 doctors office where I was greeted by two secretaries on their cell phones and a room full of very diverse people (but this is what Israel is all about). Everything is okay - just some Strep throat. The best part about the experience is that I did not pay for any of their services- got to love a social system.

2. Last Saturday night I went Israeli Folk Dancing with my boyfriend and his adopted Israeli mother. The scene was 300 Israelis dancing in sync in a gym. I was able to learn a couple of dances but I stayed in the back of the room and followed the 75 year old guy in front of me - at least I used my Hebrew!

3. My friends and I crashed our first Religious wedding (see picture). The wedding had 900 guests, an open bar and dessert buffet - it was amazing. The bride was maybe 20 years old and a lot of the boys came straight from their army duty so they carried their M16 guns on them while doing the Horrah.

I will send a prayer for all of you during this time but if you have any specific wishes that you want me to bring to the Kotel please share them with me and I will bring them to the place where our ancestors traveled long journeys and prayed to for thousands of years. I can't wait to hear the Shofar at the Kotel during Nila services and eat in many Sukkot.

Shana Tova
Esther
Random scenery picture from Hike in Galillee

Work in Israel?!?!?!

Shalom Chavarim (friends),

I hope all is well in the states with everyone. I heard the North East
is getting a storm this weekend and the South got hit pretty badly
with a couple of Hurricanes - I hope you are all surviving. Here in
Jerusalem it is hot and sunny everyday...which I love and I have no
complaints about. In the mornings there is a cool fresh breeze and in
the evenings the weather is a perfect 65 and breezy. I officially have
a Sabra (Israeli) tan and Israelis come up to me speaking Hebrew which
helps me practice my "English accent" Hebrew.

So the title of this email is Work in Israel? As of right now I am not
working but I have a few plans in action so when I need to find a job
after Ulpan is complete in December I already have contacts lined up.
I am also getting involved with volunteer work in specific fields that
I care about in Jerusalem such as being on the Steering Committee for
Presentense (http://www.presentense.org/) and getting involved with
Nir Barkat's Campaign for Mayor
(http://www.barkat.org.il/English.aspx) . Also, if any of you are
going in November to the GA 2008 (General Assembly) in Jerusalem I
will be volunteering and will see you there.

As for work, I want to get involved in Israeli Corporate
Philanthropy/Responsibility. Israeli non-profits are cutting staff
and programing because they do not receive as much funding from the
American Jewish donation anymore and they can not depend on the
Israeli government because the government is spending most of their
tax dollars on security. It is up to the private sector to sustain
Israeli NGO which contribute to Israeli society through social
welfare. I am researching the tax exemption laws, meeting with
organizations and corporations to understand the culture of Israeli
Corporate Philanthropy which is keeping me very busy and I am learning
a lot about the system.

Jerusalem is an amazing and intense place to live and through my
volunteer work I hope to make Jerusalem a more affordable and
welcoming place for young adults to consider their home.

Here is a picture of my favorite Israeli cold snack food..they are Parve ice-cream bon bons


Lots of love and enjoy your weekend

Esther

End of Summer

Shalom all!

It is not the end of the summer yet but as visitors start leaving
Israel to go back to the States I am aware of how much time I've
enjoyed "being on vacation" with my friends in Israel. From going to
Eilat/Petra, beaches in Tel Aviv, pools at hotels, great restaurants,
wineries, Haifa, Golan and the Kinneret I've taken every opportunity
to spend quality time with friends in Israel.

However the homework is piling on and I can no longer miss Ulpan
(Hebrew lessons) because a friend is in town or I want to go on a
hike. I feel more confident everyday speaking Hebrew with Israelis
and doing daily errands but I have a long way to go before I am a
fluent in Hebrew. I found "my place" to hang out where the waiters
and waitresses know me and seat me right away and I have a great group
of friends in class and in the Merkaz (place I live).

This past Shabbat my friend Shoshana celebrated her one year
anniversary of making Aliyah. We were discussing how much she
accomplished in one year and what goals she will set for the next
year. We determined she was successful because she accomplished 3
goals - 1. speaking Hebrew fluently 2. working at a great job which
makes her happy and is on her way to her career 3. having a wonderful
Israeli boyfriend. I am on my way...I'm studying Hebrew, have a couple
of work opportunities but am waiting until I complete Ulpan, and am
going on dates but there is no one of substance yet.

Enjoy the end of your summer!
lots of love
Esther
Bethany and me when Bethany flew in on the NBN August 19th flight
My Ulpan class with Mora Linda

JCRC Non-Jewish Seminar

Hello Friends and family,

These past 10 days I staffed a JCRC mission to Israel with MA Reps, Senator, and AFL-CIO participants. It was the first time I saw Israel through a Christian-Political lens. We toured the Via Delarosa, Capernaum, Bethlehem (which I am not allowed to go to because I hold an Israeli citizenship) and some of them got baptized in the Jordon River.

They also toured Masada/ Dead Sea, Yad Vashem, Jewish Quarter, Sderot, Haifa, Golan Heights and spent a day lying in the sun on a Tel-Aviv beach.

As you can see it was a whirl-win of a trip! Three highlights for me were touring the Golan Heights because it depicted the importance of Israel’s security and beauty. The Golan is one of my top 3 places where I would want to live because of its serene nature and vastness.

The second highlight was our tour of the Gaza outlook and Sderot (go to http://www.sderotmedia.com/ for more info). I envisioned what Gaza looked like but when viewing the dark, grey, polluted, and chilling area I understood the true reality of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. On one side you have beautiful trees, agriculture and flourishing communities and on the other side it is dreadfully oppressing.

After viewing the outlook we ate lunch in Sderot and visited a community center. As the participants were taking a bathroom break and milling around the foyer we heard a TZEVAH ADOM (red alert) which means a Kassam rocket is being launched from Gaza and is going to land in Sderot in 15 seconds. Everyone ran into the auditorium which is also a shelter. Finally after advocating for Sderot for the past 8 months I comprehend only a small part of life in Sderot. Even though it is not the best situation to experience a TZEVAH ADOM this did impact the participants understanding of the situation with Hamas, Iran and innocent Israeli civilians. I attached the picture of Representative Golden playing soccer with a couple of boys afterwards because this states that life goes on and the community’s moral is somehow being upheld.

The third highlight was going to an Israeli incubator in Haifa that is working on a technology which treats all types of cancer without any invasive surgery. After a week of political and religious discussions it was very important for the participants, who could impact this technology in the States, to see Israel’s creative innovations and one of our best resources.

After this amazing week I had a very restful Shabbat which included a 4 ½ hour game of Monopoly in which I came in second out of four. Now that my travels are slowing down for the summer I have time to focus on Ulpan so I can become fluent in Hebrew.

All my love,

Esther

Gaza Strip Outlook

Rep.Golden playing soccer with Sderot children

Dead Sea experience

Shivli Israel August 3rd

Allo! Sababa Aguzim!

It has been an interesting and adventurous week. My friend, Shmu (24,
modern orthodox, made aliyah with his family 13 years ago) planned to
do Shivli Israel (a trip from the Northern most point of Israel to the
Southern tip of Israel in 7 week). I told him I would do the first 3
days with him to start off his adventure. We bussed up to Kiriat
Shmona where we ate in the food court and then set up camp at Tel Dan
Kibbutz. At first everything seemed great! Some very friendly Israeli
girls brought us amazing chicken wings and then we gazed at the bright
stars. However, all throughout the night Shmu did not feel well and
ended up with food poisoning from the bad pizza he ate at the food
court. Even though he was not feeling well and did not get much sleep
we decided to start hiking at 7am. We hiked for 5 hours through a cow
pasture, nature reserve, and on the road. I attached some pictures of
our trip (tiul in Hebrew). As Shmu was feeling worse and worse we
went to a clinic on a kibbutz where he got medicine and paid a lot of
money for an ACed room. I, however, felt great so I went swimming
while he rested.

That night 2 things happened. Shmu got a call from his parents saying
his grandmother fell into a coma and will pass away any hour so he
decided to go back to Jerusalem Thursday morning. I also received news
that one of my best friend's father passed away suddenly. When I made
aliyah I did think how I was going to miss the simchas (joys) in my
family and friends lives, but I did into think about missing the bad
times when my friends needed me for support and a hug. At this moment
it felt like I abandoned my friend when she needed me the most but
there was nothing I could do or say to make the situation better for
her. This is something that will happen again and I will learn to
accept as part of my Aliyah decision.

Anyway, on a good note, I had a family friend connection near Kiriat
Shmona so I called them and they picked me up from Kfar Giladid
Thursday morning and I spend all Shabbat with the Ivgi family. They
live on Moshav Avivim which borders Lebanon and I could see the houses
in which Hizbollah lives. The mother, Devorah, who made Aliyah 30
years ago from Brookline, is an amazing women who brought up 4
strapping young men who are still in the army (21-28). It was a big
Moroccan family Shabbat dinner with her boys and their friends around
the table and delicious food. During the Second Lebanon War Devorah
cooked for all the soldiers in the area and refused to leave her
moshav so she could be of assistance to the soldiers. She is a very
brave and strong woman.

I am back in Jerusalem this week studying Hebrew at Ulpan although the
Hebrew I learned from the boys and traveling is better than the
conjugations I learn in class but both are necessary. Here is a quote
by Elie Weisel that I read in his book A Begger in Jerusalem. It
touched me.

Jerusalem: the face visible yet hidden, the sap and the blood of all
that makes us live or renounce life. The spark flashing in the
darkness, the murmur rustling through shouts of happiness and joy. A
name, a secret. For the exiled, a prayer. For all others, a promise.
Jerusalem: seventeen times destroyed yet never erased. The symbol of
survival. Jerusalem: the city which miraculously transforms man into
pilgrim; no one can enter it and go away unchanged.

All my love,
Esther

Shmu, the guy that is completing Shvili Israel
Amir, Cassie's cousin in Moshav Avivim

Weekend in Haifa/Gallilee

Shalom!

"I wish I was part of the club!" This is a comment I received today
from an American grad student who is studying International Relations
in Beirut and living in Jordon for the summer. I met him and his
friend while on the bus traveling back from Haifa to Jerusalem. It
makes me very proud when he said this to me and I know I am lucky to
be a part of an ancient religion and traditions that link me to such a
controversial but special place.

Everyday I realize something new that I love about Israel but also
something that makes me understand the reality of living here. This
past week I went for a run past the King David Hotel 20 minutes before
there was a terror incident. I was running down King George Street and
I see ambulances, police, firetrucks zooming by and I knew it was no
regular car accident. As I passed the scene I could not help feel
saddened, shocked, but also frustration. I am frustrated about the
cycle of mis-trust and terror. The Arabs are upset about their
economical and political situation and the Israelis are frustrated
with their lack of security even with all the measures that are
implemented. Each time an Arab, weather Palestinian or Arab Israeli,
creates an act of terror the Israelis put more restrictions and their
level of trust of Arabs is weakened. Back in Boston when I was
advocating for Israel I did not understand the complexity of the
situation through emotions, only through intellect, but now that I am
experiencing this first-hand I am beginning to understand the cycle
and intense emotions of the conflict from both sides.

On to a lighter note, I am in love with living in Israel. This weekend
I went on a trip to Haifa with my friend Alyssa and we toured Zichron
Yakov, hiked Mt. Carmel, tasted Druze food at Daliet-al Carmel, and
swam in the Kinneret late in the afternoon on Shabbat (pictures
below). I also love the group of people at Ulpan and we are learning
a lot of conjugations which I have a test on tomorrow.

As I've told a few people I feel like a complete person here and I am
extremely happy. I felt a void in Boston and now I am in a place where
I know is the right place for me.

Have a great week
Esther

One Month in Israel July 20th

Shalom!

Ma Matzav (What's up?) Last Thursday I started Ulpan (Hebrew lessons)
at Ulpan Etzion in Jerusalem. It is a 20 minute walk from where I
live and it is 8:15am to 12:45 Sunday through Thursday, so that is
what I am doing with my days for five months! I am in kita (class)
Aleph 3 which means I am 3 out of 7 levels. I thought I would be
higher since I can read and write but because I am not good at
conversational Hebrew they put me in this class to start but I should
move up within a month to kita Bet. There are about 15 people in my
class from all over the world (Chile, Holland, South Africa,
Australia, Ethiopia, France, Canada and of course the USA). It is very
interesting trying to converse with someone that knows little Hebrew
and English but fluent in Spanish when I know little Hebrew or Spanish
and am fluent in English...luckily he is very good looking so I put up
with the hardship of conversing with him (hahahaha).

This past week I went to the Jerusalem Wine Festival which was
amazing. I attached the picture of me and my friend Shmu who came with
Deb Donig and a few others. It was held at the Israeli Museum and
there were thousands of people, 150 different Israeli wines, music and
food. Jerusalem's scene is growing on me and there is something to do
every night. I am meeting a lot of people through where I am living,
networking and Ulpan so I have created a few groups of friends
already.

I've met a wonderful man here who gives me the best perks...free water
and popsicles and conversational Hebrew lessons. He is the local
convenient store man who is 60 years old and has taken a liking to my
smile (as he says). I sit with him for a half on hour a day and chat
which has improved my self-esteem to speak Hebrew to Israelis.

I wanted to fill you in on the daily happenings of my days in
Jerusalem...I am in love with living here. I feel as though the world
is at my fingertips here and I can accomplish anything I want...with
the understanding of the pushy Israeli culture.

Shavua Tov (have a good week)
Esther

Shabbat in the Old City - July 12

Shabbat Shalom!

Tonight I went to the Kotel for the first time as an Israeli citizen and it was amazing. The area was flowing with thousands of Jews from all over the world and the Shabbat energy was fantastic. For those of you who knows some of these people, I bumped into Rachel Jacobson, Sari Fallas and Debbie Coltin.

Some of you do not know how close I was to the Chabad in Brookline (Mayshe and Shifra) but their sister and brother-in-law live in Jerusalem and do a monthly Shabbat dinner in the Old City that is catered. Mayshe and Shifra gave me their contact information before I left so I called Hinda and Yossi a couple of days ago and they said it would be their pleasure for me and my friends to join them for Shabbat dinner in the Old City. We met 40 others from all over the United States and enjoyed a delicious shabbas meal together. I met some very cute boys, sang songs that reminded me of camp, and listened to the parsha of the week.

Mayshe and Shifra- thank you for connecting me to Hinda and Yossi and I met your parents! Your dad is quite a character and I now know where you get your personality.

As we were walking out of the Old City all the gates were closed because there was a shooting near the Lion Gate which is near the Muslim Quarter. Two policeman were injured. We stayed in a hostel for an hour until they opened up one of the gates to let everyone that needed to leave the Old City out and everyone that needed to come back in. I wanted to let everyone know that I am safe, had a great kabbalat shabbat dinner and tomorrow am relaxing since there is nothing open in Jerusalem anyways.

Shabbat Shalom and all my love
Esther

First Update July 5th

Shalom all,

Finally I get to sit down and right some of my thoughts of these past 10 days. This past week I walked/ran around Jerusalem getting a bank account, cell phone plan, health insurance, absorption center and settling into my room/apt. I now understand when people said it was not going to be easy maneuvering the Israeli beurocratic system! I considered a successful day one that I got one task completed. I forwent my go-getting mentality and "to do" lists because then I would just get disappointed that nothing got accomplished on the time table that I expect. Banks close in the middle of the day and some tellers would not assist me because they do not feel like at that moment, and in the health insurance place about 15 people overheard my conversation with the receptionist about any medical problems I have because there is no thing such as personal space. I am laughing off these situations and remaining positive.

I moved into my room which is in an absorption center with other recent English speaking immigrants that are going through similar experiences as mine. My room has a full bed, desk, dresser/closet, kitchenette and an outside porch. I share a bathroom and common space with 6 other people which is cool with me. I live off of Emek Refaim in the German Colony and LOVE the area!!! It is like the Beacon Hill of Jerusalem.

So a couple of observations since living here...when I say I made Aliyah to Israeli's in Jerusalem I get the response- "Mazol Tov! B'hazlacha" (congrats, good luck!) which feels pretty amazing to have the support and pride. However, when I say to Israelis in or near Tel Aviv I get the response, "why are you crazy?" which feels disheartening. I try to explain to them that it is a feeling of belonging in Israel rather than in the states. At this point they look at me like I have ten heads with one eye and a big green nose and they say "but it is so easy in the states and you get everything you want." To them I explain, "The materialistic part of life is not worth living in America when I can live in the Jewish state where even the bus driver says Shabbat Shalom." This usually shuts them up but I've had some great conversations from this response.

Another observation which is common to a Conservative Jew is the feeling of not belonging to a certain Jewish community especially living in Jerusalem. Many young people are Haradi, Modern Orthodox or secular but there is no middle ground. The modern orthodox speak to me and look at me like I do not know anything about Judaism because I am wearing a tank-top and skirt above my knees and the secular people do not understand why I keep kosher and observe at least some of Shabbat.

These observations are common and not a novelty but it is very different living here than visiting although I am loving every minute. I get lost walking around Jerusalem, party in Tel Aviv with thousands of Jewish people till 5am, go to the beach with my cousins, and meet new people everyday that are so interesting and welcoming.

I hope everyone had a great long weekend and Happy 4th of July!

Esther